Dark circles are one of the most requested concerns I address in consultations, and they're also one of the most commonly mistreated — because people assume dark circles are a single condition with a single fix. They're not. There are three distinct types of dark circles, each with a different cause and a different solution.
Type 1: Vascular Dark Circles
Vascular dark circles appear blue, purple, or reddish and are caused by the visibility of blood vessels beneath the thin under-eye skin. They're often most prominent in the morning and can worsen with fatigue, alcohol, high sodium intake, and allergies — all of which increase fluid retention and vessel dilation. They tend to have a genetic component and are more common in people with fairer skin.
Treatment: ingredients that target microcirculation improvement (peptides, caffeine) and ingredients that strengthen capillary walls. Vitamin K has some evidence for reducing the appearance of vascular dark circles. Cold compresses help short-term through vasoconstriction.
Type 2: Pigmentary Dark Circles
Pigmentary dark circles appear brown or tan and are caused by excess melanin in the under-eye skin. They're more common in deeper skin tones, worsen with sun exposure, and can be exacerbated by chronic rubbing of the eyes or post-inflammatory pigmentation from allergies. Unlike vascular dark circles, they don't change much with sleep or lifestyle factors.
Treatment: brightening ingredients that inhibit melanin production — vitamin C, azelaic acid, niacinamide, and tranexamic acid all have clinical backing here. Consistent SPF on the under-eye area is essential to prevent worsening.
Type 3: Structural Dark Circles
Structural dark circles are actually shadows — created by volume loss in the tear trough or mid-face that causes a hollowing effect beneath the eye. They appear dark because of shadow, not pigment or vasculature. They worsen with age as fat pads deflate and collagen density decreases.
Treatment: the most effective solution for structural dark circles is volume restoration — either through professional hyaluronic acid filler or, at home, through ingredients that support dermal density like growth factors and peptides. Our Eye Radiance Reboot Serum is formulated with plant-based growth factors and peptides specifically to improve the structural density of the under-eye area over time.
Most People Have a Combination
The majority of my clients have elements of two or all three types — which is why a comprehensive eye treatment that addresses circulation, pigmentation, and structural support simultaneously is the most practical approach for most people.
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